The world has always had creativity to fall back on in times of fear, hardship, and hopelessness. Designers have played a pivotal role in becoming the architects of such creativity and are essential in portraying a certain kind of message when it comes to fashion. From YSL’s introduction of pantsuits in 1967 that seemingly liberated the typical female wardrobe, to Vivienne Westwood’s long history of bold statements on the runway, there is absolutely no denying the power which designers hold can change the course of history. With that comes a responsibility, held by the entire industry, to hold fashion designers to a certain kind of standard that upholds both the credibility of the industry and the ability for it to evoke positive change. With the involvement of massive amounts of money and tremendous influence, ‘cancel culture’ has not seemed to be able to touch fashion designers, and the rug fashion likes to sweep all of its problems under is getting bumpy. 

There is a divide of opinion on the internet particularly, between what it means to hold someone accountable for something said or done and what it means to censor them from the industry forever, essentially ‘canceling’ them. I find no debate in the fact that the act of ‘calling someone out’ holds them accountable to some extent, but a generalization cannot be made for every instance of this occurring. In December of 2020, Alexander Wang was accused of sexual assault, initially by male model Owen Mooney, followed by 10 others. Initially, Wang had explicitly denied any action of the sort, though he later went on to issue a public apology on Instagram. This apology came after the deactivation of both his personal and business accounts, followed by a swift return to Instagram a couple months later. In such a lucrative industry, the actions of those at the top are left unquestioned in order to maintain a certain image of glamour and prestige. Anything that threatens this is washed away by the latest season’s runway show or a collaboration with another A-list celebrity. 

As an avid lover and contributor to the fashion industry itself, I wholeheartedly believe that you cannot ignore or attempt to look past these designers' actions as if nothing ever happened. To call out a designer for previous or continued actions takes strength and even puts one at risk of jeopardizing their own career, essentially becoming blacklisted from the industry. While more often than not, the accuser loses their credibility and career, the elite continue to work with high-profile names and no punishment of the sort. Dolce & Gabbana has had a long history of homophobia and racism, yet its position in the high fashion world seems to continue to work as a pretty successful ‘get out of jail free’ card, time and time again. In 2015, they both publicly opposed the idea of anyone outside of a heterosexual relationship having children, calling them “chemical children from a rented uterus.” In 2018, the brand released an extremely racist campaign, blatantly stereotyping Chinese culture while attempting to promote their runway show in Shanghai. It is difficult to ‘cancel’ a brand as established as Dolce & Gabbana, but that becomes ten times harder when they use public figures, such as Kim Kardashian, to draw attention away from their lack of remorse. 

Time does not erase action, and it certainly doesn’t constitute an apology. Before the existence of Instagram accounts such as DietPrada to spearhead the reporting of any and every fashion controversy, certain designers still found ways to be called out for their disregard of culture and human decency. In 2010, John Galliano was working as the head designer of Dior, when he drunkenly insulted a group of women in Paris, hurling anti-semetic slurs at them, which led to his subsequent firing from Dior and a fine of €6,000 ($8600) by the French government. After two years out of the spotlight and away from fashion altogether, Galliano was hired as creative director of Maison Margiela, with mixed reviews from both sides of his defense. Nancy Pearlstone, who owned a boutique shop in Washington, carried Galliano’s work at the time of his reintroduction into the industry, stating, “As a person, I find John Galliano disgusting. As a Jew, I find him disgusting. … I would find him disgusting if he said things like that about anyone, but if I’m Jewish, I should also be able to forgive and give someone a second chance.” Galliano had expressed regret for his actions, working through his alcohol addiction and learning from Jewish people that he worked with. As one of the most high profile and ingenuitive designers of the time, Galliano’s actions had rippling repercussions for years to come. The debate between separating the art from the artist was projected on a grand scale, with some in no position to be accepting his apology - as the comments were not directed towards them - forgiving him and defiantly defending him. 

More recently, Kanye West has made himself one of the most controversial names in fashion. Although I don’t believe that he needs any ounce of platform, his words and actions have directly affected the lives of others, and that deserves attention. Prior to ties being cut with Gap, Adidas, and Balenciaga, to name very few, West was still provided the luxury of saying whatever he wanted, to whomever he wanted, with his influence and notoriety dominating countless headlines for weeks. “I can literally say antisemitic shit to Adidas and they can’t drop me,” boasted West, which prompted Adidas to terminate the production of any and all Yeezy products – following the announcement that the partnership was under review.

Being in the public eye is often considered a right, rather than a privilege. Fame should not translate into one thinking they can share their opinions with no repercussions just because they’ll have a certain kind of audience to back them up. There is an even greater responsibility to set an example of what it means to respect both people and the art of fashion, as well as those who have come before us in the creative realm. By no means does this insinuate that designers shouldn’t challenge the status quo or consistently attempt to draw outside the lines, but that should come with the knowledge to approach every artistic opportunity with kindness, compassion, and decency. For those like Galliano, who have shown that they have owned up to and taken the time to address their wrongdoings, they may find themselves in a place of forgiveness. However, from whom this forgiveness comes from is important, and his reputation as a creative genius should not be the sole reason why he was welcomed back into the industry. Some may still believe that he has no place in the artistic world, and rightfully so. No amount of money or fame diminishes the impact that negative and disrespectful words have on others, which has seemed to be forgotten within fashion. For a designer, it must be made clear what it means to toe the line between what is ingenuitive and what is outright offensive. Only then can fashion be used as a force for good, one that has a place for everyone willing to listen, learn, and create. 

Illustration by Aliya Conrad