Clothing, culture, character, and the rise of the graphic tee.

The graphic t-shirt: a universal mode of self-expression! As one of the most frequently seen items of clothing found around the world, the graphic tee has made its mark as a wardrobe fundamental; amongst the most socially acceptable shirts every person can wear. As simple as this article of clothing is, the top has found its way into more than just the average person’s closet, but into the heads of its creators and the hearts of its collectors.

From band names to sports teams, social discourse to internet references, it can (and probably has been) slapped on a t-shirt. I, like many others, own a wide variety of these tops with band logos purchased at concerts and city names from places I’ve travelled to, picking them up over the years to commemorate experiences and display my interests, beliefs, and individuality. It is seen almost everywhere and on everyone, prompting the question, how has the graphic tee reached this level of acclaim?

The plain t-shirt originated in the late 19th century as underwear for American labourers and was implemented into the US Navy’s uniform in 1913. A lightweight, modernized undergarment and military attire was all it was. The first time the t-shirt was seen being worn as outerwear was in the 1939 film The Wizard of Oz. Onwards, its use was forever changed.

Its continued usage in cinema prompted its mainstream popularity, seen on Marlon Brando in A Streetcar Named Desire (1951) and James Dean in Rebel Without a Cause (1955). These films transformed the t-shirt from the big screens to basic civvies as tees became casual wear representing youth and revolution.

Alongside rock-and-roll and the hippie movement, the graphic tee rose to a new degree of popularity in the ‘60s when silk screen printing technologies were enhanced and widely adopted throughout the clothing industry. The multiscreen printing press made it more accessible, allowing easy transfers of an image onto an outfit. Andy Warhol’s ‘Campbell’s Soup’ (1962) is a classic example of one of the first infamous graphics used with this method.

The swinging sixties and groovy seventies kickstarted the expansion of graphic tees’ applicability. In these eras, it became the forum for self-expression and popular culture commentary that we know today, widely used for activism, advertising, music, and souvenirs. “The medium for message,” is what The New York Times labelled the graphic t-shirt.

This article of clothing has played a large role in activism to this day. The counterculture of the 1960s led anti-establishment protesters to don shirts amplifying messages of the movements they supported. Those involved in protesting the Vietnam War, women's liberation, LGBTQ+ rights, and many more campaigns were often seen in this attire during demonstrations. Hippies sported peace signs and spread their notion to “make love not war” via the tee. Since then, the graphic t-shirt has been internationally used to convey social and political messages for protests and day-to-day wear, symbolizing interconnection and the collective battle for freedom.

Band tees were the first tops used for personal expression, as generations broadcasted their music taste on their chests. The ‘60s were abundant with rock music fans, and the graphic tee allowed the younger generation to embrace this revolutionary era of music that had become so deeply intertwined with popular culture.

Printing presses plastered The Rolling Stones' tongue and Pink Floyd’s prism onto one t-shirt after another. The rise of artists' distinctive designs being sold at concerts and in stores brought youth of that time together via their similar music taste. This initiated the concept of sharing your interests and parts of your personality in clothing. Band tees are still used for this purpose, as music followers around the world wear their favourite artist's merchandise as concert mementoes.

The graphic t-shirt’s association with couture rather than counterculture was kicked off by UK designer Barbara Hulanicki in 1964, but its presence in the fashion industry did not pick up until Vivienne Westwood began using t-shirts in her designer lines in the ‘70s. Her unconventional elegance changed the industry for the better as she implemented activism and punk into fashion, being the first to feature the graphic t-shirt on the runway. Her work prompted other fashion designers, like Katherine Hamnett, to involve the graphic tee in high fashion, which became influential in the implementation of streetwear style in upscale outerwear. Its combined use as high fashion and activism has been recently notably featured in Westwood’s climate-change-themed Spring/Summer 2013 collection and in Dior’s Spring/Summer 2017 ‘We Should All Be Feminists’ outfit.

T-shirts as marketing tools have maintained popularity as brands and businesses over the years began putting their logos on these tops for advertisement purposes. From athletic brands like Nike to luxury designers like Gucci, the Swoosh, double G, and many other clothing labels have become highly recognisable due to their appearances on the simple t-shirt.

Apart from the fashion industry, hip-hop and grunge music culture influenced the graphic t-shirt’s transition from counterculture wear into mainstream fashion in the 1980s and ‘90s. Artists such as N.W.A performed in graphic tees, triggering its adoption in streetwear, and grunge music culture through Nirvana and Pearl Jam introduced the oversized t-shirt look.

Celebrity culture has also shaped the styling of these t-shirts into chic wear. The use of graphic tees in the “model-off-duty” aesthetic began during the ‘90s with supermodels like Kate Moss pairing the shirt with designer accessories and jeans. We still see this look sported by the next generation of models, including Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner, remaining a classic staple. The slogan tee is another design that the graphic t-shirt has taken the form of, largely popularized by celebrities in the 2000s. Since Britney Spears and Paris Hilton were seen by paparazzi wearing catchphrases on these fitted shirts, many were influenced to do the same, indicating how promotion by fashionable public figures accelerated the spread of style.

Today, graphic t-shirts have reached the peak of their popularity. In the digital age, online platforms have provided a far-reaching space to communicate ideas and spread trends. The t-shirt was a means of expression before social media, and is now seen styled by influencers in every other Instagram ad. Fast fashion is a large contributor to this as new prints are continuously pumped out by thousands of brands keeping up with microtrend designs. Whatever was labelled as the latest “must-have” design a couple of years ago is highly likely to have already found its way to a landfill. Although the graphic t-shirt has made an enormous societal impact, it would be ignorant not to mention its contribution to environmental pollution. Countering this, the market for vintage tees has risen to wide appeal because of their higher quality and historical significance. Slow fashion and thrifting culture combat the fast fashion industry, and the graphic t-shirt is highly sought after in both.

The history linked to the graphic t-shirt has led to its prominence today. Graphic tees are versatile, accessible, and timeless pieces that are able to evolve and adapt to trends while maintaining their original concepts. They can be used in both streetwear and runway fashion, all of which explain the current relevancy of this closet basic. Whether it's an “I HEART NY” baby tee or an oversized shirt with the Sublime sun, this article of clothing acts as a cultural marker that showcases the brands you support as it has become stitched into the very fabric of fashion’s history. In order to publicly display what we think is cool or funny, what we believe in, a quote we identify with, or our favourite shows, we project images and words onto these clothes to present to those who see us; this is who I am, and how I want you to perceive me.

With the graphic tee, an individual’s identity can, quite literally, be worn on their sleeve.