Illustration: Valerie Letts

The thinnest of lines exists between controversy and creativity. Those who toe that line are often branded creative geniuses, ingenuitive artists, and the best of their generation. However, similar accolades and titles are given to those who are able to cross that line due to privileged circumstances. Why is space made for them, when there are countless other individuals who are, arguably, more deserving? As highly competitive, exclusive, and hierarchical as the fashion industry is, it often comes as no surprise as to why these privileged creatives are given a free pass to say what they want and do as they feel, with little to no impact on their reputation. Between ‘nepotism babies’ who run circles around acknowledging their privilege, to fashion designers who go to extreme lengths to make their hatred for inclusivity known, you don’t need to look far to find all too common examples of this. 

This year’s MET Gala theme - Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty - was controversial, to say the least. The infamous Chanel designer being plastered everywhere from New York City to my Instagram feed is a stark reminder of the privilege that fame affords. It is undeniable that Lagerfeld had an immense impact on shaping both past and current fashion trends, and his contribution to Chanel’s fashion house for over 30 years cannot be erased. However, the negative attitude he held against many, the exclusive nature of his actions, and the inconsiderate comments against minority populations and communities have not gone unnoticed. For these reasons, the choice to honour him at this year’s MET Gala has created divisive opinions, and raised an important question of where the future of fashion is headed. Is separating the art from the artist always a viable option, or must we begin to heavily consider the personal views of an individual before we choose to consume what they create? It is a question of individual morals and ethics that cannot be answered by any one person. However, if we wish to create a more sustainable, inclusive, and inspiring industry, there is no harm in addressing the impacts of the latter half of this question. 

As the culture of the fashion industry is ever changing, it comes as no surprise that the actions of the past are seldomly tolerated in present times. While many celebrities were quick to avoid discussing Lagerfeld altogether, those who did focused on how he shaped their individual careers, noting how he impacted them specifically. There was little mention of the impact he had on others, let alone those whom he outwardly excluded from fashion (and there were a lot). Some audiences have argued that any celebrity’s attendance at this year’s Gala suggests a lack of awareness of the negative impact Lagerfeld had on others. Others have asserted that their presence was more so to honour fashion as an entity, and to “have a good time and maybe a little tequila,” in the wise words of Kylie Jenner. Although it is an evening designed to celebrate fashion, there is always something a little dystopian about the MET Gala; held behind closed doors, the industry’s richest of the rich in attendance, dressed in gowns and suits that many only ever dream of wearing. While I admit to refreshing my Instagram feed religiously on the night of the first Monday in May, the Gala is also an explicit demonstration of the elitism of the industry itself. 

Separating the art from the artist becomes increasingly difficult given the level of emotion found within the art, in whatever form that may be. Fashion is a deeply personal and individualistic means of expression – often described as an extension of oneself – which is why this concept is so difficult to internalize, especially between fashion designers and their work. Wearing their clothes does not only financially support them, but it also tends to signal that the consumer and the designer share similar feelings when wearing the pieces. This acts as more of a subconscious factor than anything else, but what we put on our body says a lot about who we are as a person - which is why fashion is so important to many, myself included. 

There is beauty in the ability to form your own opinions, and I’m definitely not here to tell you right from wrong, because if I knew, I probably wouldn’t be writing this. The intersection of your identity will inevitably impact the way you see the world. The most creative individuals will always be slightly controversial in nature, as pleasing every single person doesn’t make for very good art. The very best understand when controversy precedes the message of the art itself, and how exactly to avoid this, as to not take away from the real meaning of the piece. 

At its core, fashion will always welcome many different opinions from every type of person, but we cannot shy away from the fact that it has been an exclusive industry for far too long. All are deserving of a seat at the table, not just those who have held one for years; the times are changing, and fashion must learn how to keep up.